Since leaving Japan three weeks ago I have been a nomad, living out of my suitcase and sleeping in about 12 different beds.
I am hugely grateful to friends and family for putting me up while tenants remained in our house, but tonight I am excited to be able to sleep in my own bed again.
Bliss!
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Image: Kohari
My workspace in Miura-san’s beautiful studio
As promised in yesterday’s ‘Behind the curtain’, this is the first in a series of posts sharing how to make a traditional noren curtain – something I learnt under the watchful eye of talented kimono designer Miura-san.
People say it is hard to get under the skin of Japan as a foreigner, and this is even more the case in Kyoto, a proud city which highly values tradition and ancestry. Even though we were there for six months, and I can speak the language, it was not until the fifth month that something happened which made me feel like I had managed to peep behind the curtains.
Behind the door of a quaint traditional Kyoto wooden house lies Sukeroku, a guest house and noodle café where you can slurp fat tasty udon whilst sat on tatami mats looking out over a tiny central garden.
Arashiyama was one of my favourite places in Kyoto. It’s name means ‘Storm Mountain’ and almost every time I went there it poured with rain, but this only added to the atmosphere as a thick mist settled over the hills.
Over dinner a friend told us of an extraordinary place, deep in the mountains of Tottori Prefecture. When a long-time Kyoto resident says their favourite temple is one NOT in Kyoto, you know must be worth a visit. Without giving us any details, they piqued our interest enough to make us get in the car and drive for several hours to see it.
There could be no better welcome home present than a new baby nephew. I am totally in love… Here he is at one day old.
Tottori, Japan
A lot of people ask me for tips on planning adventures, and going on big trips. I have been fortunate enough to live, work and travel in more than 50 countries across the world, on every continent (including Antarctica!) so I know a thing or two about packing and preparing.
People ask whether the most important thing is to have a very clear budget, or to sort all your visas out in advance, or to learn some of the language before you go. They ask whether they should read a book about the culture, or buy a new rucksack, or make sure they get their house rented out. They ask whether the most important thing is to find a good travelling partner, or find somewhere to stay ahead of time, or pack for all weathers.
Actually it is none of the above.
Mrs Tanaka with a bowl of azuki kake-gori (shaved ice with azuki beans)
It never ceases to amaze me what an important role strangers can play in our lives. Many years ago, when I first went to Kyoto at the tender age of 19 to study, this particular lady made a huge difference to my time there.